EFTA00283811.pdf

Dear and Ike, The pages to follow contain your TOTAL HOME INSPECTION re ort which is based on observations made while conducting an inspection of 1 The purpose of this inspection was to assess and report the condition of the dwelling through visual inspection and when possible an operational check of its unconcealed, observable and accessible major components. Our inspection and this report do not identify, nor are they intended to identify, every minute or latent defect. The inspection and report do identify, in general accordance with the State of Connecticut's Home Inspection Standards of Practice, the systems and components that are near the end of their serviceable lives and the significant defects or deficiencies of the systems and components our inspector identified at the time of your inspection. Your inspection and this report will provide you with enhanced general insight and useful information about the house, and will contain comments that should help you better maintain it should you become its owner. As one example, because water and moisture are the root cause of many problems in dwellings of all kinds, any and all references to water or moisture, no matter how small, should be taken seriously and acted upon. Ike was issued a copy of relevant sections of the State of Connecticut Regulation Concerning Home Inspectors (the "Standards of Practice & Code of Ethics"). We recommend that you retain this copy of the Standards of Practice & Code of Ethics in the event that you need to better understand the scope and purpose of your home inspection. I EFTA00283811 As you read our report, know that we frequently reference specific locations inside or outside the house. For clarity's sake, please keep in mind that locations are frequently expressed as if from a vantage point at the front of the house, as if we are facing it. If we write, "the rear left bedroom", rear means the section of the house farthest from the vantage point, and left means the part of the house to the left of the vantage point. Performing a TOTAL HOME INSPECTION for you and providing this report has been our privilege. Should you have any questions concerning this report or if we can be of further assistance in any way, please do not hesitate to contact our office. LANDSCAPING At this time of year, non-coniferous trees are seasonally dormant. As a result we cannot offer an evaluation of their condition. We suggest that you examine the trees on the property, in the spring, to determine if any dead trees or branches are overhanging or in a position to harm the building structure and grounds or cause injuries should they fall. There are branches overhanging the roof and gutter system (see photo left). By trimming or removing them, you will likely reduce roofing, gutter and siding maintenance and repair and you will also remove a potential bridge for animals. Some of the tree branches on the property (e.g. front yard) are supported by cables to help prevent them from falling onto the property causing consequential damage and harm. The plantings were in generally acceptable condition, but some appeared to be dormant. We suggest that you examine the plantings in the spring to determine if any are dead. In the interim, some of the shrubbery needs minor pruning (see photo right for example area). Trimming the plantings away from the foundation and building to afford a minimum of twelve inches of clearance between the shrubs and exterior cladding will help prevent moisture from being trapped against the structure, potentially promoting rot on and beneath vulnerable exterior components. The lawn was in generally acceptable condition, although spotty areas were observed. With an open tree canopy and proper, consistent maintenance, the lawn's appearance would likely improve over the next year or two. A capped, white, PVC pipe was observed in the front left center flower bed (see photo right). Our inspector was unable to definitively determine a purpose for the pipe (sewer line clean out access or a planned in-ground receptacle for a gutter system leader?) therefore we recommend that you inquire with the seller as to its purpose. 2 EFTA00283812 EFTA00283813 。。籼②＝-H 。②－－一由口d ＝ ②H ×②。＝佣＞-＝雨由°②＝－岂＝西扫＂②＝-3 仞8 蜀封＝. 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There are areas around the house where the siding was too close to, or even in contact with the soil. This will eventually lead to a rotting condition and will invite insect activity. Cut the grade or remove lower courses of siding in these areas, so that at least 6" of foundation is exposed. This would lend itself to a healthier wood environment. Keep these areas free from debris so that it can be inspected for any rotting or insect evidence. There were places around the house where rot or the onset of wood rot was observed, for example at the lower course of shingles at the rear center part of the house (see photo right of example shingles). This and all rotted or potentially rotted wood should be removed, and the sub-surfaces should be repaired as necessary. When the sub-surfaces are repaired, new wood should be installed, caulked and painted. Potentially rotting wood that is not repaired remains an invitation to insect infestation. When the sub-surfaces are exposed, if any insect activity is found, it should be treated as necessary at that time. The exterior was peeling and stained in some areas, but it was generally in acceptable condition. Plans should include refinishing the offending areas in the future to help ensure a weather tight seal. Because portions of the left side patio are pitched toward the house, rainwater may eventually seep into the house and its lower level. Future consideration should be given to re-pitching the patio. The rear patio was settled and uneven. This condition may be or develop into a tripping hazard and should be corrected for your safety. Water was supplied to the front left side, left side, rear right side and one of the rear left center exterior hose bibcocks (faucets) as well as to the garage hose bibcock (faucet) at the time of this inspection. No water was supplied to the other rear left center exterior hose bibcock (faucet) at the time of this inspection. We recommend that the water supply to all exterior water sources and freeze vulnerable water sources are turned off in the autumn and that all hoses are disconnected from the faucets, to help prevent damage caused by pipes that may freeze. Inquire with the seller as to the locations of the inside shut off valves for these hose bibs. A propane tank was located at the rear left side of the house. The propane gas (LPG) shut off valve is located under the top cover of the tank (see photo right). Inspecting barbecues is beyond the scope of the standard home inspection we performed for you. As a result, no evaluation of the barbecue, its equipment and its installation has been included in this report. We suggest you ask the seller or service company responsible for the barbecue's maintenance to render an opinion as to its condition. 5 EFTA00283815  SEWAGE DISPOSAL It has been reported to our office that this house has been connected to the city sewer system. We recommend confirmation of this with the local municipality. BASEMENT & STRUCTURE It was indicated to us that this house is approximately 64 years old, with apparent renovations, additions and modifications performed since its original construction. It is a two-and-one half story, expanded Cape Cod styled, wood-framed dwelling. The basement (utility closet) was accessed from the first floor while the crawl spaces were accessed by portals in the foundation walls. The accessible areas were all inspected from within. This house had a crawl space at the rear left part of the house that we were unable to enter due to the small portal being blocked by ductwork and waste pipes (see photo right). As a result, we could not inspect important structural and mechanical conditions within that area or provide any definitive findings about this area this report. We recommend that this area be made accessible and an inspection by TOTAL HOME INSPECTION and a licensed pest control company be arranged prior to your closing. To help eliminate an inviting environment for wood destroying insects, the wood, detritus and debris should be removed from the crawl space areas. The foundation walls are concrete blocks. Settlement cracks were noted in the foundation at the time of the inspection. Settlement cracks are not uncommon and are usually the result of improper soil grading around foundations. This condition is presently not a structural problem. It must be noted that settlement cracks could develop into structural cracks. Periodic inspection of these cracks and proper care should prevent future problems. These cracks should be filled from the exterior with a suitable material to help prevent seepage and they should be monitored for any further movement. The main girders are built up 2" x 12" 's, while the first floor joists are 2" x 8" 's and 2" x 10" 's installed 16" on center. The exterior walls appear to be 2" x 4" 's installed 16" on center. The girders are supported by concrete block piers and by the foundation walls. Where visible, the aforementioned structural components appeared to be in generally acceptable condition. The insulation visible beneath the first floor sub flooring will likely help improve energy efficiency and comfort. The sagging, fallen, displaced and missing sections of insulation beneath the first floor sub flooring visible in the crawl space areas (see photo right for example area) should be reinstalled or replaced as required to help improve energy efficiency and comfort. No wood destroying insect report is contained in this inspection report. This house was not inspected for any type of wood destroying insects by TOTAL HOME INSPECTION, however, All County Pest Control (203- 6 EFTA00283816 327-0259) did inspect the property for wood destroying insects and they issued an official Wood Destroying Insect Report. It must be noted that the a Standards of Practice regulating home inspectors prevents All County Pest Control and TOTAL HOME INSPECTION from performing destructive testing/inspections or determine or confirm insect damage to areas that are not visible for inspection. Annual termite inspections are recommended. Evidence of rodent activity was observed in the crawl spaces. From our observation of droppings, nesting holes and nesting materials, we cannot determine if there has been an occasional rodent in the home or if there has been a rodent infestation. We recommend that you inquire with the current owner about any previous rodent infestation and what actions have been taken to control this condition. If the owner is unaware of this condition, then a rodent inspection by a qualified exterminator is recommended. As representative measures toward controlling general dampness in the crawl spaces, we recommend that the cold water lines be insulated and that you consider installing a fan to enhance airflow and a dehumidifier to actively extract moisture from the area. Watermarks were evident in the basement/ utility room area and in the crawl spaces. This indicates water has entered these areas in the past. The areas were dry at the time of the inspection. Be sure that all exterior grades pitch away from the foundation and extend the guttering system as far away from the foundation as practical (see LANDSCAPING and BUILDING EXTERIOR sections of this report). It must be noted that any area below grade is susceptible to water seepage during certain weather conditions. If after performing the above recommendations, water seepage is still evident, consultation with a waterproofing specialist may be necessary. We were unable to operate the sump pump because it was located beneath a sealed cover (see photo right — blue arrow). Its operation could only be verified by the test button on the pump piping (see photo right - red arrow). Sump pumps should be kept in good working order and tested several times a year. We recommend that you maintain the battery operated back-up system installed for the sump pump to help ensure its operation during a power outage. The sump pump appears to discharge into the municipal sewer system, which is not allowed by most municipalities. The sump pump should discharge into a storm drain or onto the ground surface as far away from the building as practical. HEATING Consistent with the information provided by the Standard Oil technician who evaluated the system, the heating plant is an oil-fired, steel, Thermo Pride brand furnace (serial # 42142911/ model # OT16- 125 — see photo right). The furnace fired satisfactorily at the time of this inspection. It should be cleaned, including flue passages, and all components adjusted to operate at peak performance. The fan unit and blades should be vacuumed and lubricated, as required, and the belts adjusted or replaced. All safety devices should be checked. The heat exchanger should be inspected for cracks and leaks prior to your closing (the heat exchanger can only be totally inspected by dismantling the furnace). If it cannot be verified that this furnace and 7 EFTA00283817 its components have been serviced and cleaned within the past year, arrangements should be made for that servicing. The electronic air filter installed on the furnace was not functional at the time of this inspection. The electronic air filter should be repaired and serviced as per the manufacturer's recommendations or as was the case at the time of this inspection, an appropriately sized replacement filter should be properly installed in the electronic air cleaner compartment to help allow the HVAC system to function at peak performance levels and to help prevent damage to components in the furnace. The replaceable air filter should be changed about every 12-to-16 weeks, or as needed during operation. There are visible fractures on the furnace's combustion chamber liner. If any of these cracks extend through the fire lining and excessive heat comes into contact with the metal lining of the heating plant, the life expectancy of the unit will be reduced. A service company should check and replace the firebox lining if necessary. There is no draft control installed on the smoke pipe of the heating plant. This device controls the draft at the combustion chamber. A proper operating draft control will result in fuel economy therefore a draft control should be installed. The furnace appears to be approximately 23 years old. Furnaces that have been properly maintained have an average useful life expectancy of approximately 20-30 years. Due to its apparent age, continued trouble-free operation is questionable. Your plans should include replacing the furnace before/when it fails. The humidifier (see photo left) was not operational at the time of inspection. If you intend to use this unit, request it be put in good working condition. Humidifiers are prone to leaking. If leaking occurs, it should be serviced promptly to prevent damage to the • '''0;l4 heat exchanger and/or to the ductwork. Humidifiers • -N.: 10 - 4 ' should be serviced in accordance with the manufacturer's recommended procedure. We do not recommend the use of this type of humidifier. The humidifier bypass should be open during the heating season and closed during the cooling season. Our inspector was unable to locate a "remote" burner shut off switch to turn off the furnace's burner unit. A shut off switch should be installed outside of the furnace room/utility room. Inquire with the seller as to the location of the remote shut off switch. If there is no remote shut off switch, we recommend that one be installed for your safety. We recommend that all heating and air conditioning ducts be insulated for better energy efficiency. All forced air systems, including ducts should be cleaned as required to help prevent possible accumulations of dust, dirt, allergenic substances, pathogenic substances and/or toxicogenic substances. We do not test for indoor "air pollution", which the Consumer Product Safety Commission rates fifth among potential contaminants. Nevertheless, inasmuch as health is a personal responsibility, we recommend that you have the indoor air quality tested as a prudent investment in environmental hygiene, and particularly if you or any member of your family suffers from allergies or asthma. 8 EFTA00283818 The heat distribution is one zone of forced hot air. Pursuant to Ike's advice, all heat sources were adequately warm, but some sources were warmer than others. There could be several causes for this condition, including the system needing to be balanced. A qualified HVAC service company should make the necessary repairs or adjustments for your comfort. The dining room is supplementally heated via independent fan induced electric resistant heaters. These heaters were operated at the time of inspection and found to operate as designed. Replace the missing cover on the right-most heater and be sure not to allow any electric cords, furnishings, draperies or flammable objects to rest against the electric strip heaters while in use. Any outlets installed directly over an electric strip heater should be relocated for your safety. The front right 2nd floor bathroom's ensuite bathroom is supplementally heated via an independent electric resistant wall heater. This heater was also operated at the time of inspection and found to operate as designed. In this case, we also recommend that you be sure not to allow any electric cords, furnishings, draperies or flammable objects to rest against the electric wall heater while in use. The visible areas of the 15-year old, 275-gallon, oil storage tank were in generally acceptable condition (see photo left red arrow). Oil storage tanks have an average useful life expectancy of 30-40 years but the life expectancy can be affected significantly by the environment around the tank. The main fuel (#2 heating oil) shut off valve is located in the garage at the base of the aforementioned 275-gallon oil storage tank (see photo left — white arrow). The oil supp y pipes are covere concrete in the garage and they run below the concrete floor in the crawl space (see photo right for example area), preventing evaluation of the oil supply pipes. The copper pipes are likely to be adversely affected by their contact with the concrete. It should be noted that oil could leak from these pipes below the concrete. We recommend that you have your oil supplier re-route the oil lines as required to remedy this condition and that the pipes be encased in protective sleeves to help prevent damage to the pipes. This house appears to have an abandoned or removed buried oil tank. Abandoning or removing oil tanks should be done in accordance with all local, state and E. P. A. regulations. We recommend that you obtain the appropriate documentation confirming that the tank has been abandoned or removed according to these regulations. HEATING WATER The water is heated by an independent, 80-gallon, electric, A. O. Smith brand, water heater (serial # MG88-0025599-913 — see photo below left) with a recovery rate of approximately 80 gallons per hour. The hot water supply system was evaluated and found to provide adequate amounts of hot water to all fixtures tested, at the time of this inspection. 9 EFTA00283819  It is recommended that electric water heaters be flushed periodically to help prevent internal rusting and to maintain an efficiency level. According to our inspector's thermometer, the undiluted hot water temperature was approximately 133.6 degrees Fahrenheit. It is recommended that the undiluted hot water temperature remain between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 125 degrees Fahrenheit to prevent scalding and for your comfort. Make the appropriate adjustments for safety purposes. The water heater appears to be 23 years old. Water heaters that service municipal water supplies and that are properly maintained have an average useful life expectancy of 10-15 years. These units deteriorate from the inside out. We have no way of determining the interior condition of the water heater. Your plans should include replacing the water heater before it fails. We recommend installing a pan and a drain under the water heater to prevent damage caused by a system failure or the discharge from the safety device. Most water heaters are equipped with an anode rod or with anode rods that serve as a "sacrificial" material to help prevent the interior tank from corroding. Replacement of depleted rods can extend the life of your water heater, so periodic inspections are recommended. Most water heater manufacturers recommend that the inspections are conducted by a qualified technician and at a minimum should be checked annually after the warrantee period expires. COOLING The Heat Controller brand, electric, air conditioning system condenser/compressor (serial # 28702111392) was not activated due to the low exterior temperatures. Most manufacturers recommend, in order to avoid damage, that these units not be activated when exterior temperatures fall below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Obtain some type of guarantee from the seller that this unit will be in good working condition when needed. For maximum efficiency, service the equipment annually. Keep the outside compressor area clear of shrubbery, debris or restrictions. No evaluation of the air conditioning system is contained in this report. Air conditioning systems require special tools and equipment in order to evaluate their efficiency and condition. You should consult with the present owner to see that the recommended annual servicing has been performed and that there are no known deficiencies in the system. The exterior condenser / compressor appears to be 24 years old. Air conditioning systems that are properly maintained have an average useful life expectancy of 12-18 years. Due to its apparent age, continued trouble-free operation is questionable. Your plans should include replacing the necessary components of the cooling system when they fail. The condensation drain for the air handler in the basement drains into the waste piping (see photo below right). This is not recommended because when the drain traps dry out during the heating season, septic gases can enter the air handler and possibly be distributed into the living space. We recommend re-routing the drain to the exterior of the house and sealing the waste pipe to prevent the gases from entering the basement space. 10 EFTA00283820 All forced air systems, including ducts should be cleaned as required to help prevent possible accumulations of dust, dirt, allergenic substances, pathogenic substances and/or toxicogenic substances. We do not test for indoor "air pollution", which the Consumer Product Safety Commission rates fifth among potential contaminants. Nevertheless, inasmuch as health is a personal responsibility, we recommend that you have the indoor air quality tested as a prudent investment in environmental hygiene, and particularly if you or any member of your family suffers from allergies or asthma. WATER SYSTEM It has been reported to our office that the water is supplied via the local municipal water company. The main water supply piping is copper. The main shut- off valve is located in the crawl space (see photo right — red arrow). A "remote" meter reader has been installed on the water meter in the crawl space (see photo right — blue arrow), which should mean that the water meter should be able to be read remotely from the exterior of the house. The visible water supply lines are copper, plastic, braided-metal and chromed-metal and they were in generally acceptable condition. We recommend that all water supply pipes be insulated for better energy efficiency, to prevent condensation and to protect them from the elements. The water pressure and flow was acceptable at all plumbing fixtures that were tested. The visible waste, vent and drainage pipes are PVC plastic, copper, galvanized metal, chromed metal and cast iron. They too were in generally acceptable condition. Galvanized pipe rusts and corrodes at the joints, and chemical deposits tend to build up on the inner wall linings, cutting off the flow of water. Galvanized pipes have an average useful life span of 45-50 years before they need to be replaced. Some of the galvanized has already been replaced. Monitor the galvanized metal pipes. Water flow and drainage were found acceptable at all plumbing locations that were tested, except for the slow drain at the 2nd floor hall bathroom, which should be cleaned/repaired as necessary for your convenience and to prevent consequential damage. Note that we evaluate drain pipes by flushing every available drain that has an active fixture while observing their draw and watching for blockages or slow drains, but this is not a conclusive test and only a video camera scan of the main waste line would confirm its actual condition. However, you can be sure that blockages will occur, usually relative in severity to the age of the system, and will range from minor ones in the branch lines, or at the traps beneath sinks, tubs and showers, to major blockages in the main line. The minor ones are easily cleared, either by appropriate chemical means or by removing and cleaning the traps. However, if tree roots for example, grow into the main drain that connects the house to the public sewer, repairs could become more costly. For these reasons, we recommend that you ask the seller if they have ever experienced any drainage problems, or you may wish to have the main waste line video-scanned before your closing. Failing II EFTA00283821 this, we recommend that you obtain an insurance policy that covers blockages and damage to the main sewage pipe(s). ELECTRICITY The 200-ampere, 120 / 240-volt electrical system enters the building via overhead cables. The electric meter and main service disconnect switch are located on the exterior of the building (see photo below left). The primary panelboard (load center) is located in the basement/utility room. (see photo below center). There is also a secondary panelboard (sub panel) located in the basement/ utility room. The main distribution panel has been fed with aluminum feeders. The sub panel has been fed with copper. Where visible the distribution conductors (wires) are copper, armored cable (AC / BX) and copper, non-metallic sheathed cable (NM / Romex) type conductors (wires). They were in generally acceptable condition. All circuit breakers in the electrical panel should be properly labeled for your safety and for your convenience. The electrical breaker switches in the panel should be tested on an annual basis. The system has been grounded to the incoming water pipe. IL _a There is a 20-ampere electrical circuit breaker in the main electric panel (r d breaker down on the left side of the panel — see photo above center) that has not been wired correctly. The correct size breaker must be fitted onto the correct size wire to prevent overheating of the wire. The 20-ampere breaker should be fitted with a 12 gauge wire for your safety. Have a qualified, licensed electrical contractor make the necessary corrections prior to your closing. Some of the electrical wiring is of the armored cable (AC / BX), cloth and varnish insulation type. This wiring was commonly used during the era in which this house was constructed/renovated. As this type of branch circuit conductors gets older, it can fray and get brittle. It is common to observe some fraying at the connections where this type of wiring is in use. This is especially evident if these wires have been disturbed while performing repairs or renovations. It is common to have to repair or replace brittle and frayed cloth wiring when electrical outlets, wall switches and lighting fixtures are repaired or updated in a house using this type of wiring. Please note that we are unable to check the wiring concealed behind the walls, ceilings and in junction boxes, at the outlets, at wall switches, at electrical fixtures, etc., therefore we cannot report on the integrity of these AC / BX cables with cloth insulated wires. The integrity and safety of these wires can only be determined by specialized testing performed by a qualified, licensed electrician, therefore we recommend that the AC wires with cloth insulation be tested for your safety. 12 EFTA00283822 This house has been fitted with a generator system in case of a power outage (see photo right of part of the interior components located in the basement/utility room). Evaluating generator systems is beyond the scope of the standard home inspection we performed for you, therefore no evaluation of the system is included in this report. Inquire with the seller or a qualified contractor that specializes in generators regarding the proper operation of this system. We also recommend that you inquire with the seller as to whether the generator is included in the purchase price of the house. The smoke and fire alarms throughout this house should be tested frequently and kept in good working condition. Carbon monoxide detectors, fire extinguishers and additional smoke and fire detectors should be installed as required pursuant to local regulations, for your safety and for your convenience. Electrical receptacles (outlets) in any bathroom or powder room, over a kitchen counter top, installed on a kitchen "island", in the garage, at the electrical distribution panel, and on the exterior of the house and grounds, should be of the safer "Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter" (GFCI) type. This safety outlet breaks the flow of electricity in the event of a short, preventing electric shock. These devices should be installed where necessary, for example in the kitchen, in the butler's kitchen, in the bathrooms (master bathroom is okay), and on the exterior of the house (rear left center)). They should be checked monthly to insure they are performing as designed. There are a minimum number of electrical receptacles (outlets) in some rooms. As finances permit, consider having a qualified, licensed electrical contractor install additional outlets for your convenience. Some of the electrical receptacles (outlets) throughout the house are the older two-pronged type receptacles. As an upgrade we recommend the two-pronged receptacles be changed to the newer three-pronged grounded receptacles (outlets). This is most important where an appliance will be used. We were unable to check the wiring in the wall, so when your electrician is replacing or rewiring receptacles, any dried or frayed internal wiring should be checked and replaced as required for your safety. ATTIC The upper attic is accessed by a ceiling hatch in the 2nd floor hall bathroom. Our inspector did not inspect this attic at the time of this inspection. He will return to the house when he collects the radon in the air test monitor on Wednesday, 12/14, 2011 and he will report his findings at that time. The attic space also consists of storage voids at the perimeter (eaves) of the roofline, accessed by wall hatches in the two e d floor bedrooms. Where visible (insulation between the rafters in portions of the eaves) they were in acceptable condition. Repair or replace the torn screen on the left-most gable end louver in the stand-up area of the right-most storage eave area to help prevent insects and small animals from entering the attic area. The space between the roof rafters should only be insulated in specialized situations and then, only when properly vented. The condition that now exists in the parts of the storage eave can cause 13 EFTA00283823 condensation to form between the insulation and roof structure. Remove the insulation and re- install it in a wall or floor that separates a heated area from an unheated area. Remember the vapor barrier should face the heated surface. Once the insulation is removed, the rafters, structural members and the roof sheathing should be checked to determine if there is any damage. Again, insulation should not be installed over or in close proximity to heat-emitting objects, e.g., deficient electrical systems, exposed electrical wiring or open junction boxes, recessed or surface mounted light fixtures or exhaust flues of heat-producing devices. Heat-emitting objects like these, covered by or in contact with insulation, may represent a potential fire hazard. GARAGE The three-car garage has a concrete floor. The walls and ceiling are gypsum board. Due the materials being stored in the garage, we were unable to inspect all parts of its interior surfaces. Where visible (see photos below left, below center and below right), they were generally in acceptable condition with the observations to follow to be taken into account and corrections made as required. The concrete floor and its apron area have developed cracks. Usually caused by frost action below the slab, this condition is common with slab type garage floors. Filling, patching and sealing these cracks will help arrest further deterioration of the garage floor surface in the near term. The garage storage loft is accessed by a pull-down staircase in the garage (see photo left). It has been framed for lightweight storage only. Do not store any heavy objects in this loft. We recommend that you consider installing guard railing at the attic staircase opening for your safety and for your convenience. To increase the energy efficiency of the garage loft-to-bonus room door, add weather-stripping to the perimeters of the door and its frame. The garage has been fitted with three electrically operated, overhead doors. The doors were spot tested and found to be in proper working condition, with their safety reversing functions operating adequately to help prevent entrapment. The doors' reversing actions should be tested frequently and kept in good working order for your safety. 14 EFTA00283824  We recommend that the firewood be removed from the garage (see example of firewood in the garage in photo left). It should be stored as far away from the structure as practical to help control the moisture level in the garage and to help prevent and inviting environment for wood destroying insects and rodents. Our inspector was unable to operate the front pedestrian entrance door. Make the necessary repairs to the door and its components as required for your convenience. INTERIOR ROOM COMMENTS The interior rooms were checked for major flaws. In addition, ceilings and walls were checked for past leak sites and for significant cracks. Floors were checked for significant humps or severe pull aways. Windows were checked for cracked panes and a representative number of windows, doors, light switches and electrical outlets were tested for their operating characteristics. The appliances were spot tested, on a limited basis, to see that they operated at the time of this inspection. Due to the mercurial nature of household appliances, the home inspection we conducted for you does not, in any respect, warranty or guarantee their condition. Assessing the drafting ability of fireplace and heating system flues is beyond the scope of the home inspection as defined by the governing "Standards of Practice & Code of Ethics", therefore no evaluations or representations are made as to the drafting performance of any such flues. Please refer to following general notes and room-by-room findings for additional maintenance and repair items. GENERAL NOTES There were settled and out-of-level floors observed in the house. Normal shrinkage and settlement of building materials or even vibrations from renovations or activity within the house are often the cause. Because we saw no evidence of instability, we consider the observed conditions to be consistent with the age of this house. Repairs, for cosmetic purposes, can be undertaken at your discretion. Properly refitting the e d floor hall bathroom door, the left side bedroom entrance door and the left side bedroom's closet door will enhance ease of use and permit them to dose fully and latch dosed. Corrugated stainless steel tubing (CSST) was observed in the crawl space (see photo right) and in the garage (see photo left), apparently servicing the propane-fired range top burners and the left side barbeque. This type of flexible tubing has thin walls and would be vulnerable to splitting, in the event of the house incurring a lightning strike, for example. For more inf